The Beauty of the Beara Peninsula
I don’t think you ever realize how beautiful a place is until you see it from a different perspective. When you grow up there it seems normal. You take it all for granted. You don’t appreciate the value of it. In my case this is true for my homeland in the Beara Peninsula in Ireland. What changed my views and made me realize how amazing it was? Well, two things.
The first is from living away from there for a number of years. When you go back there after being used to living in a desert landscape it strikes you how amazing it is. The greenery of the fields and forests, the mountain landscape, the Atlantic Ocean beating on the cliffs and shores. The lakes which mirror the scenery on a clear day. The winding roads which can un-nerve a lot of drivers. These are a portion of the things that you only notice when you come back from being away.
The second is seeing it from the point of view of a tourist. By that I mean of course going there with Misha who had never seen it before. The same could be said of any experience, that it’s always different when you look at it from a different perspective. But its only when you see how amazed the other person is, see their reaction when you turn another corner on the road, see them smiling to themselves as they look out over the waves crashing on the beach, its then you really take notice of how valuable a place is.
Where is the Beara Peninsula
The Beara Peninsula is located in the South-West corner of Ireland. Not as big as it’s neighbour the Ring of Kerry, but just as beautiful. It’s a part of the Wild Atlantic Way which takes in the west coast of Ireland. About two hours drive from Cork city and an hour from the town of Killarney in Kerry.
What’s to see on the Beara Peninsula
Due to the Atlantic Ocean its coastline is full of cliffs and craggy coves. Home to two large islands, Bere Island and Dursey Island, and many other smaller ones. The highest waterfall in Ireland is located on the peninsula, as well as the only cable car in Ireland. Doted all over the peninsula are standing stones, ringforts, and many other pre-historic and more recent historical viewpoints. The Caha Mountains run through the peninsula and ensure that it’s a well watered land from the frequent rain! But get it on a clear sunny day and its hard to find a more scenic spot.
Glengarriff
Glengarriff is a lovely little village at the start of the Beara Peninsula. On a summers day people will be sitting outside enjoying themselves and the atmosphere is great. A small village, but certainly an atmospheric one. Close to the village is a large oak forest with lots of walks ranging from half an hour to a few hours long. One of them will take you up to what is called ‘Lady Bantry’s Lookout’. There are steps all the ways up and it can take a bit of a toll on your legs. But once you get up there, the view is beautiful looking down over the whole village and its surrounding area from up high.
The forests are a relaxing walk. It is peaceful and tranquil. The rivers and streams running through the forest may be the only sound you hear. You’re afraid to make a sound in case you break the peace. The trees are shrouded with moss and are relics of a bygone era. Before cars, mobile phones, and computers. Being in the forests make you forget about all the distractions of modern day life and make you feel at ease.
The Caha Pass
Leaving the forestry, take the Caha Pass if you wish to go to Kenmare. Driving through a number of hand cut tunnels at the top you worry about meeting an oncoming car!
The windy road may seem daunting but at the top looking back over the bay and the mountains, you will forget about your nerves. In the near distance can be seen the neighboring peninsula, The Sheep’s Head Peninsula. Whiddy Island lies in the bay just off the town of Bantry. Looking to the mountains on your side you catch a glimpse of Barley Lake lying peacefully at the top. It is possible to drive up to this lake, and if you have time it is a nice way to spend some time.
We were extremely lucky when we went up there as it started to snow. It was as close as we got to a white Christmas! Within minutes the ground was blanketed in white. The surrounding mountain tops retained their snow covered peaks for a few days and were truly a sight to behold.
For the months of the year from April to October, you can take a trip out to Garnish Island, which is renowned for its gardens and scenic walks. The island also hosts a restored Martello with great views over the bay.
Adrigole
Coming back down into Glengarriff, take the road for Castletownbere, and as you drive along the road take in the views to your left. Whiddy Island and the Sheep’s Head can be clearly seen. You are now entering the parish of Adrigole, home to the aforementioned highest waterfall in Ireland and the Healy Pass.
Adrigole is a large parish, with not a large population. Driving through Adrigole, you will come to a crossroads showing the way to the Healy Pass. For those who love windy roads, this is another little treasure.
The Healy Pass is one of the roads that was built during the Great Famine in Ireland in the 19th Century, and was a way of offering employment to people while at the same time improving the infrastructure.
The road winds up the Caha Mountains, and crossing over the top, entering Kerry, the view is breath taking. Looking down onto a lake, and over the Kenmare Bay towards the Ring of Kerry you will perhaps spot the highest mountain in Ireland, Carrantuohill.
You have two choices here, continue onto Kenmare, or go back down the Healy Pass to continue your journey around the Beara Peninsula. We advise on the latter.
After coming back onto the main road to Castletownbere, you will pass under Hungry Hill and spot the Mare’s Tail. This is the waterfall that has been mentioned before. In full flow it looks stunning, and it’s easy to see where it got its name as it looks like a horse’s tail.
Castletownbere
While continuing onto Castletownbere, out in the bay you can see Bere Island. The only way to get here is by ferry, there are two that leave from the mainland in different locations. A nice way to spend a warm summer’s day is to take the ferry to Bere Island and walk around it.
Castletownbere is a large fishing town, and its armada of fishing boats which can be seen in the harbour as you drive in are evidence of this. Naturally due to its fishing status, there are many good seafood restaurants in the vicinity.
The town of Castletownbere is the largest town in the peninsula. It was also the location of the castle to the O’Sullivan Beare clan and was the site of the Siege of Dunboy in the early 17th Century. It was from here that the March of O’Sullivan Beare happened in 1602. This was a 500km march from the castle to the County of Leitrim in Ireland with 1000 of his followers, of which only 35 survived. While the castle is now in ruins, its location and the views from it are well worth visiting.
In the same grounds as the castle is Puxley’s Mansion. This was a marvelous manor house which was burnt down by the IRA in 1921. More recently renovation work started to restore it to its former glory but due to the recession a few years ago this stopped.
Garnish / Allihies
This is the part where the scenery steps up a little and you experience the real treasure of the Beara Peninsula! The road to Allihies is one that goes along the coast, with striking views out over the bay at cliffs, islands, and the Atlantic Ocean. One minute you are looking at Bere Island resting in the bay. Soon after you can see over to the MacGillicuddy Reeks in Kerry over the Kenmare Bay on the other side. If you get it on a really clear crisp day you can see the Skellig Islands off in the distance.
This part of the country always surprises me how it doesn’t get more publicity. But maybe its better that way. Maybe the quietness and peacefulness is good for it.
At the tip of the Beara Peninsula is Dursey Island. This is the location of the cable car. Being in it looking down at the waves crashing below you is a strange experience. However, don’t worry, it’s extremely safe and has been recently modernized. You can take a trip out to Dursey and spend a few hours roaming around and taking in some nice walks. Dursey was one of the islands in Ireland where whitewashed signs were placed to spell out the word ‘Eire’ during WWII so that pilots would know they were flying over neutral ground.
Leaving Dursey, you follow the scenic route onto the village of Allihies. A colourful little village and a good place to stop for a break on your trip. You will see the old copper mines overlooking the village as you pass through. This mine closed in 1884 and created wide scale emigration to other mining locations, one of the most prominent being Butte, Montana.
Eyeries
Travelling yet again along the coast, this time on the northern side of the peninsula, you can see the mountains and coastline of Kerry much easier. Eyeries, like Allihies, is extremely colourful. It has also been the filming location for a few TV series over the years such as ‘Falling for a Dancer’ and the movie ‘The Purple Taxi’.
Just outside Eyeries, is the tallest known ogham stone at a height of 5.3m.
From Eyeries, you can take two roads again. One will lead you back to Castletownbere, and the other will take to the village of Ardgroom. If you continue to Ardgroom it is more of the same beautiful coastline to one side, and mountains to the other. Passing Ardgroom, you will enter County Kerry, and presently come to Lauragh. Here the path divides again, continue to Kenmare, or take the Healy Pass down into Adrigole. (The choices remind me of the ‘Choose Your Own Adventure’ books from many years ago)! If you continue to Kenmare you can return to Glengarriff via the Caha Pass.
Conclusion
So what to say except what a beautiful part of the country. As mentioned before it is only when seeing it as a tourist I have truly been able to appreciate it. For Misha she was taken away by everything in the peninsula. From the greenery to the coastline. The snow on the mountain tops to the waves crashing on the rocks on the shore. The peacefulness of it all. The tranquility of the area, while at the same time witnessing the violence of the sea in areas.
The Beara Peninsula too often gets bypassed when people visit Ireland. They think it’s too far out of the way. Or that there’s nothing major to see there. But if you go, don’t get caught in this form of thinking. Take a trip there, visit the local bars and mingle. Drive along the coast. Visit Bere Island and Dursey Island. Take a moment to walk around a pre-historic ringfort where people lived thousands of years ago. See the ancient burial places and dolmens where our ancestors lie beneath. Take it all in, because although the peninsula is small, it has an abundance of wealth in scenery and history and you will be glad you visited the Beara Peninsula.
