In the Midst of Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi National Park, Uganda
We have been trekking for almost two hours through the mist covered mountains. A terrain that is tough and in places impassable. Our guides are hacking through the overgrowth and bushes with machetes. To the front and back of our group is a soldier carrying an assault rifle. We make our way over the terrain slowly. As we navigate through the bushes, two more guides come into view.
From behind them, peering from the foliage of a tree, we can see two large brown eyes, fixed on us. Seeing we are not a threat, the eyes move and gradually become a small face. And finally evolve into the figure of a baby mountain gorilla. Hearing our reactions, and seeing us staring at him, he decides to impress us further. He starts swinging from vines and hanging from the branch with one hand. A movement below us awakens us from our dreamlike state. The Daddy of the family sits below us. His large silver back facing us. This is nothing new to him and he is unfazed. Finally, we are in the midst of mountain gorillas in Bwindi National Park, Uganda.
How to go about Tracking Gorillas in Bwindi
Tracking the gorillas is not a cheap or an easy task. The cost per permit is US$600 and the easiest way to get it is to go through a tour guide company. This ensures that everything is in place and that you don’t get there missing some vital information therefore not allowing you to go.
We used Xavier’s Safari Memories and he ensured that everything was fully prepared so there were no issues once we got there. He also advised us on what to bring the evening before and that we had everything in the morning before leaving.
(For contact details for Xavier please contact us through our ‘Contact Us’ page above).
Required Fitness Levels
You need to have a relative amount of fitness as the trek can be hard going. A lot of it is through small tracks where you need to negotiate your way across logs that are over streams, and up steep climbs. To make it easier it is recommended to get one of the many porters available at the briefing point. Not only will they carry your bag but they will help you across the streams, pull you up the steep climbs, and also help you back down as well. If you decide you can’t continue, then there is an option where you can get a number of them to carry you. We thought this was a joke but apparently it happens quite a bit!
Before embarking on the trek, you are also told that if you have any sickness or something like a cough you will not be able to go as it can be transmitted to the gorillas. As we were told this you could see everyone in the briefing room holding their breath to make sure they didn’t sneeze or cough!
The Start of the Tracking
Similar to the chimpanzee tracking, you are given a briefing beforehand. You also need to bring your passport. This information is taken by the rangers so they have a record of everybody’s nationalities and the appropriate embassy to contact in the event of anything happening to you.
You need to make sure you have good hiking boots, plenty of water, long trousers tucked in at the boots, and a raincoat as it is after all a rainforest and can rain heavily. There are sticks available to take which can be useful to help you on your journey. Also you are told beforehand that you should bring gardening gloves as sometimes you will be going through the bushes and not a track. The gorillas are constantly on the move. And it’s not guaranteed that they will be sitting nicely in open ground for you to find them.
Again you split up into groups of about 8 people. Each group has a guide, some trackers, and two soldiers. One at the front and one at the back. Again to discourage any large predators or forest elephants from interrupting your beautiful day! This time however, each group is designated a specific family to go to, unlike the chimps. In preparation for the tracking, a group of advance trackers are sent out in the morning to find the gorillas. They then feed the location back to the guides once they have found them.
Once the information is received, and the guides have planned a route to get to them, it’s off on your way!
Getting to the Gorillas
As mentioned before, the trek is a lot more strenuous than the chimpanzee tracking. This time you will be going through some difficult terrain. If you are not used to hiking or trekking you will definitely find it tough! In places you will need to cross some streams and you need to balance yourself going across the logs. If you have a porter this makes it much easier. But if you didn’t then the risk of falling in is all on your head!
Ahead the trackers will in places need to cut through the bush with their machetes. Which makes it really feel like you are on a trek through uncharted terrain. This adds to the whole experience. The jungle looms all around you and looks like no man has ever set foot there. It truly reminds you of what it must have felt like when European explorers were setting foot here many years ago for the first time.
During the trek, you will stop a good few times and take a breather while the trackers cut their way through the bushes. This is needed as the climb has gotten pretty steep and you need to recover! After about two hours of this, then the magic happens, and it has all been worthwhile!
Meeting the Gorillas
When you first come across the gorilla family, it takes your breath away. Seeing the baby gorillas playing in the foliage, watching you and taking pleasure in your attention. Hearing the bushes crack below you and noticing the daddy of the family, the great silverback, sitting there, eating quietly, seeming like he’s not caring but in reality keeping a close eye on everything, no words can describe it.
In the Presence of Giants
As you get closer, and they are within arms reach, they will look at you. To see those big brown eyes looking into yours, you feel a connection. These are not just normal animals. They are one of our closest relatives in the animal kingdom, and you can associate with them.
As they move around, they may brush past you, pushing you out of their way. They know you’re not going to stop them and they will just barge through you if you happen to be standing in their path. To feel their touch on you is unnerving yet it’s something that you know that very few people have got to experience. The touch of a wild untamed animal, an animal that at the snap of your fingers could destroy you, but won’t, as you are not a threat.
Watching the Gorillas
You sit close to them for an hour, watching, and listening. They go about their business all the time knowing you are there and entertaining you. The young playing in the trees, showing their strength by hanging from the branches with one arm. The teenagers beating their chests pretending they are the boss. The mom and dad keeping a watchful eye on their young. It’s like watching a family of humans.
Leaving the Gorillas
Unfortunately all good things and experiences must come to an end. So does this one. Reluctantly you get up from your patch on the ground. With a last look at one of nature’s most beautiful families, you start the return journey back to the camp. Again, the trek is not easy. But with a stop off for lunch, it breaks it up nicely. You are also more used to the terrain at this stage. If you got there, you can get back from there!
On arriving back, and being given your certificate showing you had successfully tracked the gorillas, you can take pictures with the group and everyone who helped make the day a success. Then give out the tips to the trackers, guide, soldiers, and porters, and make your way back to your waiting car.
Conclusion
It’s a trip that will never be forgotten, in the mist covered mountains of Uganda, and one of the most endearing. Seeing these great apes in their natural surroundings, without fear, and with total freedom, is incredible. How anybody can take them from this place to lock them in zoos like they did in the time of Diane Fossey is heartbreaking. How they killed so many to take one young gorilla back to a country for the entertainment of humans isn’t right.
Now they are protected rigidly by the governments and people of the countries they live in. Even in the villages employment is created as the porters are all from the surrounding areas. They realize the importance of these animals to them and their people, and the whole world should recognize it too.
They are a powerful creature, a beautiful creature, and an intelligent creature. A creature that deserves its freedom and to get on with its daily routine in a landscape that protects it and that it belongs in. And we have been lucky enough to witness this.
– Information if you are planning this activity
Cost: Approximately $600 for the permit to track the gorillas. Plus about $50-$100 in total for tips for the guide, trackers, soldiers, and porters.
When to do: The best time to do the tracking is between June to September as this is the dry season. Although it may still rain because you are in the mountains.
Duration of activity: Varies from 4 hours to 8 hours depending on where the gorillas have moved.
What to bring with you: You will need a good pair of hiking boots and a long trousers which you can tuck into your boots. Take a light raincoat as the rain can come at any minute and walking in tough brush while wet is not nice. If you have some walking sticks yourself bring them, otherwise there are some available at the briefing point. Bring some gloves as you will be going through dense vegetation and you want to avoid cutting yourself. You will need water along the way also. It’s advisable to hire a porter as they will really make your journey easier.
Location: Bwindi National Park, Uganda.
Our Uganda Travel Guide
- For our Uganda Travel Guide with information for people looking to travel to Uganda please click here.
Related Articles about Uganda
- To learn about Tracking Chimpanzees in Kibale, Uganda please click here.